How to Clean and Care for Shoes by Material

Part 1: Leather shoes and boots, the Army way

Smooth leather: clean, soap, polish

1. Get the mud off. Scrape it away with a flat stick or blunt tool that will not cut leather or rubber. (FM 21-15)
2. Wash lightly. Use mild soap and very little water. Remove all the suds, then wipe the inside dry. (FM 21-15)
3. Saddle soap while still slightly damp. Work it in before the leather is fully dry to keep it soft. (FM 21-15)
4. Let it dry slowly. See the drying rules below. Leather "must be dried slowly." (FM 31-70)
5. Polish to match. Use only stains and polishes that match the color of the shoes. (FM 21-15)
6. Conditioners and waterproofing go on fully dry leather only. The older manual allows sealants, oils, and waxes "if necessary," on completely dry leather. Skip abrasives. (FM 21-15; FM 31-70)

About the spit shine: we could not find an official military procedure for a spit or mirror shine in the manuals we were able to read, so we do not publish one here. If you want that finish, follow the directions on your wax polish.

Rough-out and suede-style boots (the tan combat boot look)

Many work and hiking boots, and Army combat boots, use leather with the rough side out. The Army's fact sheet for these boots is clear:

• Clean with a stiff nylon brush, then warm water.
• Do not use soap. If more cleaning is needed, use water-soluble products only. Oil- or alcohol-based cleaners can damage the boots.
• No polish or waterproofing. They ruin the look of the leather, make the boots less breathable, and make them take longer to dry.
• Nylon side panels get the same brush-and-warm-water treatment.

(USACHPPM Fact Sheet 36-012-1106.) Other Army sources differ on soap and waterproofing; see the comparison below.

Drying wet shoes and boots (works for every pair)

• No strong heat. Keep wet footwear out of hot sun and away from fires, heaters, and radiators. Heat can shrink shoes, harden leather, and push out seams. (FM 21-15; Soldier's Blue Book; DCPH-A)
• Stuff the toes with paper to help them keep their shape as they dry. (FM 21-15; Soldier's Blue Book)
• Take out the insoles so both the insole and the shoe dry and do not grow fungus. (Soldier's Blue Book)
• Dry slowly, in a warm, dry, airy place. Boots that are left wet lose their shape and the leather hardens. (FM 21-18; ATP 3-21.18)
• Rotate two pairs. The Army tells soldiers to alternate pairs daily and have a second pair so a wet one can dry completely. The same habit makes everyday shoes last longer. (Soldier's Blue Book; ATP 3-90.98; FM 21-15)

Socks and feet, which keep shoes fresher too

• Change socks every day and whenever they get wet. (TC 4-02.3; ATP 3-21.18)
• Moisture-wicking synthetic socks stay drier than cotton. (DCPH-A)
• Wash socks in lukewarm water. Hot water shrinks them. (ATP 3-21.18)
• If you use foot powder, use just enough on the feet and in the shoes. (TC 4-02.3; ATP 3-21.18)
• Wash and dry feet daily, including between the toes, and shake out boots before putting them on. (TC 4-02.3; Soldier's Blue Book; ATP 3-90.98)

The Army fit check

• About a thumb's width between the longest toe and the end of the boot. (ATP 3-21.18)
• With the boot unlaced, an index finger should slide under the lower edge of the tongue. (ATP 3-21.18)
• Shop at the end of the day, when feet are largest, and wear the socks you will use. (HPRC; DCPH-A)
• Where it hurts tells you why: sore toe ends mean too short or laced too loosely, sore sides mean too narrow, and a rubbing heel means too long, laced too loosely, or too wide at the heel. (ATP 3-21.18)
• Break new pairs in gradually, alternating with a pair that already fits. (ATP 3-21.18; DCPH-A)

For children's shoes, see the kids' sizing guide.

Part 2: Sneakers and everyday shoes, by the maker's instructions

Every brand we checked agrees on one thing: air-dry at room temperature, never in a dryer or next to heat. They disagree on almost everything else, especially the washing machine.

Knit and mesh running shoes

• Take out the laces and insoles, then dry-brush the dirt off. (Nike; ASICS; Brooks)
• Use a soft brush and cool or lukewarm water. Hot water can affect the dye. Brush gently so the yarn does not snag, and dab mesh rather than scrubbing it. (Nike; HOKA)
• Do not soak or submerge. It can warp the fabric and foam. (Brooks; New Balance)
• Stuff with paper and air-dry. (Brooks; ASICS; HOKA)

Canvas

• Mild dish soap in lukewarm water, a soft brush or cloth, and a test spot first. (Converse)
• Scrub gently. Hard scrubbing can fray or fade canvas. (adidas)
• Use a melamine eraser on the rubber only, and no chlorine bleach. Use color-safe soap on black canvas. (Vans)
• Soak laces separately for 15 to 30 minutes. (Vans)

Wool and washable knit (Allbirds)

• Take out the insoles and laces, and brush off dirt.
• Put the shoes in a delicates bag or pillowcase. Use a gentle cycle, cold water, and a little mild detergent, with no softener or bleach.
• Air-dry. The shoes regain their shape in a wear or two. Suede or leather Allbirds are the exception.

Leather sneakers

• Hand-clean only, with a leather cleaner or mild soap, lukewarm water, and a soft brush. (Nike; Veja)
• Veja recommends a protective balm after cleaning. The Army smooth-leather steps above are another approach.

Suede and nubuck

• Clean only when the shoe is dry. Brush in one direction and use a suede eraser on marks. (adidas; HOKA)
• Converse says to use a dry brush only, with no water. Vans says use minimal water and never soak.

Kids' shoes

• Washable styles (Stride Rite Made2Play, Pediped washables) can go in the machine. Stride Rite says cold water on a standard cycle with the straps fastened. Pediped says take out the insoles, use cold water on a gentle cycle, and wash the shoes on their own.
• Air-dry with the hook-and-loop straps open, away from sun, and no dryer. (Pediped)
• Leather kids' shoes: mild soap or baby wipes. Suede: an eraser. (Pediped)

Sandals and foam clogs

• Birkenstock cork footbeds: seal the cork when it looks dry. Do not submerge. Air-dry slowly, and keep them out of hot cars, direct sun, and away from fireplaces and radiators. Heat damages cork and foam soles.
• Crocs: keep them out of extreme heat and hot cars, which can shrink or warp them.

Where the sources disagree

These are the points where the sources give different answers. We list each view without picking one.

Where every source agrees

• No strong heat when drying. No dryers, heaters, radiators, fires, or hot sun. Every military and brand source we read says this.
• Air-dry, and stuff shoes with paper to hold their shape. Army manuals, Brooks, ASICS, HOKA, Converse, and Vans all describe it.
• Test a new cleaner on a hidden spot first. New Balance and Converse both say so.

A 10-minute routine

This combines the steps most of the sources share. Swap in the method you chose for your pair's material.

1. Prep (1 minute). Take out laces and insoles if they come out. Scrape off mud outside.
2. Dry brush (2 minutes). Stiff brush on the soles, soft brush on the uppers.
3. Clean (4 minutes). Use the method for the material above. Small amounts, small sections.
4. Laces and insoles (1 minute). Wash laces separately. Wipe the insoles and let them air out.
5. Dry and shape (2 minutes). Stuff with paper, then let them dry slowly somewhere airy, away from heat.